Cylinder pressure is the key to any internal combustion engine. Your engine's power and efficiency depend on strong compression and the ability to contain the combustion pressure in the cylinder. For best results, this intense pressure from the burning air and fuel will not escape past the piston rings or valves, so it exerts maximum force down on the pistons, rotating the crankshaft. All factory-assembled engines have a cranking compression specification that you can test your engine against to determine what condition its internal parts such as piston rings, valves and head gaskets are in. You can find these cranking compression specifications listed in repair manuals and sometimes in the owner's manual. If your engine has been modified with a different camshaft or cylinder heads, the stock specs are meaningless. Still, a compression test will provide a good indication of the condition of the engine by comparing one cylinder to another.
The test is simple. A compression test gauge (similar in concept to a tire pressure gauge) is screwed into the sparkplug hole. The engine is turned over several times (but not started) with the starter, and the gauge records the pressure in p.s.i. generated by that cylinder. All cylinders are checked, then the numbers are compared to the factory specification and each other. The general rule is that the lowest cylinder should test a minimum of 80 percent of the best cylinder. However, if the test numbers are consistently 10 percent down from factory spec, it's time to start setting aside the budget for a rebuild.
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